It’s obvious from the number of times I’ve been asked, “Do you test your recipes?” that many cookbook readers are skeptical about this. Yet, as I mentioned in my “recipes good enough for publication,” blog post, almost without exception, all of the experienced and successful recipe writers and creators I know do test, usually a lot.
True, readers can still get burned by sketchy, fragmented “receipts” in old cookbooks, as well as the modern-day fund-raiser/ community collections and Internet offerings just gathered up and published without any testing or editing. In such works, it’s pretty common for home cook contributors to omit key details—like forgetting to list the baking powder in muffins or to say that the gelatin has to be softened before it’s dumped into a boiling mixture.
And I admit, errors, even fatal ones, occasionally slip into even well-tested cookbook and article recipes. Not long ago, I came upon a fudge recipe in a newspaper that gave lengthy, thoughtful advice on choosing the right chocolate, but failed to mention how much of it was required!
I’m sorry to say that in my pizza dough recipe in the initial print run of my Kneadlessly Simple cookbook the “yield” was listed as “1 pizza,” even though the directions clearly said to divide the dough in half and “use each half to prepare a pizza.” DUH! (Don’t even ask—it’s far too complicated to explain how this happened, but it got fixed right away.)
But truly, it’s not always our fault! Sometimes problems can arise due to—dare I even mention it?—USER error. My friend and fellow cookbook author, David Joachim, has a pithy explanation for this: “A recipe writer provides a map, but the cook still has to drive the car. If the cook doesn’t have much experience, the ride may be bumpy. Even though recipe writers may be excellent backseat drivers, no recipe is truly foolproof.” In other words, there’s always an unavoidable oops factor!
Here are just some of the more bizarre, unbelievable, slightly maddening, even heartbreaking, I’m-gonna-scream sad food writer tales in my files. Unfortunately, I’m not making any of them up!
> A young teenager made my “easy” chocolate cake that appeared in a Sunday magazine supplement for his mom on Mothers’ Day. Unfortunately, he added 2 tablespoons instead of 2 teaspoons of baking powder. His father complained that it “overflowed and messed up the whole oven, stunk up the kitchen, and wasn’t fit to eat.” I don’t doubt any of that one bit!
> An agitated newbie cook told a home economist friend of mine who was working the USDA holiday turkey hot-line that despite what the recipe said her 22 pound turkey would NOT fit in the 25-pound turkey baking bag. My friend eventually figured out that the caller was trying to fit not only the turkey but the roasting pan in the bag.
> In the I’m-happy-to-help-BUT,” department: A reader personally called me to report that though my cheesecake came out “pretty good,” it took 20 minutes longer to bake than the recipe said. In reviewing her steps, we found that she’d started with cold water in the water bath, not the hot water specified. “That would slow down the baking a bit,” I pointed out.
> Mark Scarbrough, one of my cookbook author colleagues, once had a reader raise a fuss about a pie crust recipe not working. When he followed up and discovered that she had mistakenly substituted cornstarch for the flour, she countered, “They’re both white!”
> A food editor (who really should have known better) mixed up one of my oatmeal cookie recipes using a processor instead of the mixer called for. She continued to disparage the overly-stiff dough and dry, tough cookies even after I explained that when rolled oats are ground into flour by a processor blade, they’ll make the dough much drier and stiffer than when they’re incorporated as flakes. There seemed no point in even bothering to mention that toughness increases when a processor overdevelops the gluten in wheat flour….
> Food writer and blogger Jeanne Sauvage recollects that someone used a pancake mix (containing baking soda, salt, etc.) as a “substitute” for flour in her recipe. They then complained “that the texture was funny and it tasted too salty!” Really?
> In the I-never-saw-that-one-coming department: An elderly lady, whom I knew was a good baker, declared my tip on using foil to keep water from seeping into a leaky springform pan a “disaster.” It turns out she had interpreted my direction to “wrap the pan bottom in a sheet of aluminum foil large enough to extend all the way up the pan sides,” to mean that the foil should be wrapped around the inside of the pan. Which, as she said, didn’t prevent leaks and made the cheesecake come out “just terrible.” (Ever since, I’ve instructed readers to “set the pan on a sheet of foil, then pull it up around the outside of the pan.)
> In the I-definitely-saw-that-one-coming department: I know whenever someone tells me they substituted diet tub-style margarine for the butter in one of my cookies—and this has happened a number of times—that they are also going to tell me the recipe failed. Diet tub margarine and butter have about as much in common, baking-wise, as mud and melted chocolate: They look vaguely similar but, trust me, the two are going to yield different results, one of which folks are not going to like!
Anybody got other sad stories to share? Bring ’em on!
Nancy Baggett says
Fran, LOL. Sometimes cooks substitute so many inappropriate things, it just boggles the mind–like I didn't have fresh cherries so I subbed dried apricots! Or I didn't have celery seed so I subbed chopped celery–yikes. Occasionally, these bizarre swaps apparently do work out!
Fran costigan says
Fun, funny post that felt right at home to me. Fat-out. Flour-out. Sugar-out. Gee, I didn't like your recipe (this is understand. I liked it fine, harder to understand.
Anonymous says
Thanks for a good laugh. In my own blog writing I've experienced similar comments. We all do silly things at times, but one has to laugh at those who enjoy pointing out flaws. Gosh, when point the finger it always comes back around!
Matt's Cooking Secrets says
Once I did indeed try substituting margarine into a recipe that asked for butter, never again will I make a mistake like that.
Anonymous says
To Funny: I love how individuals like to substitute ingredients with something else. Then blame anyone but themselves. I have done the same thing by using substitutions but I didn't blame the writer of the book for the mistake. Things can comeout bad even when you do follow the directions. This was to funny great read.
Nancy Baggett says
Thanks Jamie! There is a serious purpose behind these tales. The recipe writer has to very creative about guessing what instructions are needed & how they might be misinterpreted. I actually say in some cookie recipes, "Don't be tempted to sub soft margarine because …" in the recipe intro to head off trouble!
Jamie says
Nancy, this is a great post and quite funny. I do have to say that thank heavens for American cookbooks! Whenever I bake from a French cookbook (well, often) the recipe fails or doesn't come out quite right. I discussed this with an American friend of mine who has translated French cookbooks into English. She explained that the recipes in many French cookbooks are just not tested! Well, I can believe it! I try very hard to explain the recipes I post on my blog well enough for beginners especially once I found out that some of my son's friends were trying the easier cake recipes, young men who had never baked before. Once we start writing down our recipes for the likes of those first-time bakers we start to see just where things can be misunderstand and go wrong. Thanks for this post. While laughing through the stories it really made me think through how I write down and test my own recipes.
Nancy Baggett says
Yes, it is a little hard to put the filling in if you have added the top crust and baked it already–maybe a syringe?
Anonymous says
my sister made double crust fruit pie but had a difficult time figuring out how to stuff the filling in after she baked the crust. my aunt made egg flan but left the fork in. my mom plays safe and orders from a neighborhood bakery and I always volunteer to clean dishes.
Rachelle says
A friend new to cooking, and with an under-stocked kitchen substituted Pam spray for vegetable oil in my pancake recipe. Her poor new husband thought she'd never be a good cook.
Colin says
"They're both white!"
Seriously?! Wow
Sanura @ MyLifeRunsOnFood.com says
My favorite, when someone complained my food wasn't healthy, because I use white flour and white sugar. They told me they were using only wheat flour to replace the white flour in a muffin recipe.
Nancy Baggett says
Oh my–that is either the funniest or the saddest story I've ever heard. Thanks for sharing. LOL, LOL again!
SaltShaker says
My favorite complaint was from someone who had a cake turn out "crunchy" on one of my recipes. Apparently "whole eggs" needed to be explained more clearly….
Faith says
What a fun read! As a restaurant owner with a husband who admittedly liked to "try" to cook something, like the family-joke "jambalaya" he made with (not kidding) buffalo chicken flavored sausage, pancake syrup, chalula sauce and capers, yes – capers, with rice he made in my rice cooker but didn't know you still had to add water to the grains, this was a bit of an appeasement for him. Definitely a good start to a fun coffee table book!