For foodies, sitting down to a meal with friends and colleagues is an enormous pleasure, especially when someone else does the cooking and the food is outstanding. Several weeks ago during a conference in Denver, I was fortunate to enjoy a wonderful meal with a lively group of culinary friends, including noted baking author and teacher Peter Reinhart and Eating Well editor, Jessie Price. I’d heard good things before I booked a table at Rioja, but this upscale (but not stuffy) downtown eatery delivered everything I’d hoped for and more.
The place was airy and welcoming; the staff professional and attentive (even with a big, noisy Saturday night crowd on hand); and chef Jen Jasinski’s food brightly flavored and artfully presented. We asked her what we shouldn’t miss, and she suggested her handmade pastas, so we ordered little sampler portions of the pea pod ravioli, candied lemon gnocchi, and artichoke tortelloni. All three were tempting, but I thought the ravioli was absolutely amazing.
Our group shared a Rioja “picnic,” appetizer featuring artisan meats, pine nut-crusted goat cheese, olives, and a simple looking, yet spectacularly succulent fennel salad; I’d love a whole plate of that salad right now! And we passed around the “fresh bacon” appetizer that boasted a terrific, curry-scented garbanzo puree. The three entrees we shared—grilled Colorado lamb (shown), slow-roasted Alaskan halibut and curried sea scallops—were also all memorable and so satisfying that we waved off any suggestion of dessert.
If you’re headed for Denver, don’t miss a chance to try Jasinski’s stylish, creative fare. It more than measures up to the food of many of the high profile East Coast restaurants I’ve visited over the last couple years. If you need a weekend evening reservation, be sure to book ahead. Rioja is at 1431 Larimer Sq, Denver, 303/820-2282.
It's clearly changed now, not really so much like your mother probably remembers. Thanks for sharing your recollections.
My mother was raised on Laramer Street. Her father owned a dress shop there. She remembers being on roller-skates weaving in and out of down and out folks when this neighborhood was a real barrio. We chuckle when we see trendy places from the "hood" getting press. I have to say, I have a few recipes from the olden days when there was a large Chinese and Italian influence. We were raised on many of those dishes from ages ago. Little did my mom know she was cooking fusion 40 years ago!
I still remember it as an excellent meal, and would def go back when in Dender
Excellent suggestion Nancy. It definitely measures up to East Coast Restaurants and also beats out some San Francisco and Los Angeles restaurants I’ve visited.
My husband and I followed your lead and had the lamb and shared the pea pod ravioli and candied lemon gnocchi. All were superb. The waiter was very attentive and the place was busy on a Thursday night. He brought us a small sampling of tuna tartare to start. It was excellent. We declined dessert but he brought us a two small beignets filled with goat cheese and fig. Having eaten breakfast at Café Du Mond in New Orleans on numerous occasions this was a great spin on a classic. Don’t miss this restaurant if you love good fresh food prepared by an excellent Chef. Joyce