I just returned from a relaxing, low-key culinary vacation touring the Finger Lakes’ country of western New York State. It’s a great place to take a break from urban hustle and bustle, yet still have easy access to interesting wines, and occasionally, interesting food.
The scenery is remarkably varied—from colorful harbors, expanses of water, and beautiful rolling farmland to vineyards, quaint towns the locals call “villages,” and a spectacular deep, rugged gorge in Watkins Glen. The set of ten vaguely finger-shaped lakes are not only the dominant geographical feature in the region, but the north-south routes up and down their lengths form the easy to explore wine trails and are perfect backdrop for numerous picturesque inns, restaurants, and historic “gingerbread-style” homes.
Almost all the lakes boast a vineyard or two, and the three largest, Keuka, Seneca, and Cayuga, are home to dozens. (The Finger Lakes wineries number over a hundred.) Though usually much smaller and humbler than those in more famous, more chic Napa Valley, most wineries have public tasting rooms and knowledgeable, friendly staffs, and there are many more tasting opportunities than can possibly be explored in even several months. Perhaps because the wine region spreads across a fairly large area, the traffic was relatively light and driving hassle-free.
The signature grape in the region is the Riesling (all the viniferous vines are grafted onto hardier native American grape stock), and for white wine fans, there are numerous fine selections to try. Good reds are harder to find, though about half of the two cases we came home with were in fact reds (including an appealing Dr. Konstantin Frank 2006 Cabernet and 2007 Lemburger, and a Ravines Wine Cellars 2007 Pinot Noir).
Great dining experiences also seemed hard to come by, although there were plenty of places that served a satisfactory, if not memorable, meal. Our dinner at the petal pink Pleasant Valley Inn outside Hammondsport was enjoyable; the one at the grandly appointed Esperana Mansion near Penn-Yan was not. Stop there for a glass of wine, the ambience, and the gorgeous view of Keuka Lake (shown at the very top left), but, trust me, skip the food!
I’ll be posting some more pics and some specific not-to-be-missed points of interest shortly, so check back again soon.
P.S.
In response to my observation that finding good restaurants in the area is difficult, a Finger Lake food pro I know sent along the following suggestions: Suzanne’s and Stone Cat Restaurants on Senaca Lake. Cayuga Lake–Aurora Inn and Boat Yard (Ithaca). Keuka Lake–Snug Harbor, Italian Bistro (Hammondsport). Skaneateles Lake–Rosalie’s Cucina (Phil Romano, founder) and Mirabeau. Thanks for the tips, Pat. I will try some of these spots on my next trip.
Nancy Baggett says
Gary, sorry to be tardy in responding. Actually, le Creuset does have a pot that is about the right size. I believe it is 3.5 liters–which is just perfect. If you don't want to spend that much, investigate the Walmart website for the Tramotina Dutch oven–it is a Chinese knockoff that is really nicely made and very economical. Again the 3 1/2-4 quart one is what you want. You can only order this from them on-line, but they will send the pot to the store near you so you can pick it up.
You can certainly double the dough–just be sure you've got a huge bowl to handle the volume. These loaves need a thorough bake due to the significant hydration, so I suggest not making them much larger. Just bake in two pots, or use the pot twice if you only have one!
Gary says
one more question–can these recipes be doubled or tripled (with the right dutch ovens) and still be as good as the breads made in the original recipe? thanks
Gary says
Nancy, I have been baking several pot breads and I noticed that you suggest a 3 1/2 to 4Qt pot. I have several Le Creuset but they don't have one that size. any suggestions for other lines that may have a quality pot that size?
Nancy Baggett says
Thanks for the tip on the Sheldrake Point Winery. I will be going back to the area next fall and will certainly check it out.
Also, thanks so much for your feedback on Kneadlessly Simple. I am so glad you are enjoying it. One of my hopes was that the method would entice more people to bake yeast bread–and without having to settle for a so-so result.
Gary says
Nancy, thank you for your new bread baking book. It has brought a wonderful hobby back to life for me. I hadn't baked in years and now I'm baking weekly and enjoying the ease of your method immensely!! It is so easy and the product is amazing. My wife and I are enjoying a baggett as I write, although not sure whether I should capitalize Baggett when I use that particular recipe. :).
thanks again for the wonderful book–we are buying your other cookbooks as well–I love the attention to detail
Gary says
I grew up in that area and had a cottage there after the wine industry started. The Sheldrake Point Winery on the westside of Cayaga is the real deal–even drinkable reds (which as you said, are hard to find). The restaurant there named Simply Red is also a cut above the rest of the eateries.
I'm glad you enjoyed the area but it still needs to develop.
Nancy Baggett says
thanks for the tip on the recipe–I'll go look it up
Justin says
i'm at home and just noticed that cooking light put that banana cookie recipe back up, but I still say that baking time is way too long…
http://find.myrecipes.com/recipes/recipefinder.dyn?action=displayRecipe&recipe_id=1906392
Ben says
That's one place I want to visit sometime. When I lived in NY my family used to go there in the summer, but I never got to go with them. Maybe soon 😀